Tuesday 30 July 2024

Aire and Calder and the Calder and Hebble

 We finished our cruise on these two waterways this morning so it seems a good point to summarise our experience on these closely linked waterways. They are really continous with the Aire and Calder taking us from Leeds to Wakefield via those two rivers and the Calder and Hebble taking us on from Wakefield to Cooper Bridge. So here goes:

This is Lemonroyd Lock, probably the largest on the Aire and Calder and the last before the River Calder joins the Aire at Castleford. It certainly made Leo look very small - more like a toy boat.

This splendid curving footbridge crosses the Aire at Castleford. The mill behind is Allinson's Flour Mill. The channel in the middle of the river is a fish pass.

From the confluence of the rivers at Castleford we turned west to go up the River Calder. The picture shows the railway arches over the river at Methley.

At Stanley Ferry we passed the biggest lock-making place on the UK inland waterways. The picture shows completed lock gates and they are being sprayed continously with water presumably to stop them warping on drying out before installation.

At Stanley Ferry the navigation crosses the Calder on an aqueduct which is a similar construction to the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Here is the view from the aqueduct looking at the Calder below.

This part of our travels has been sometimes on the river and sometimes on cuts with locks to take us around the weirs on the river. Here we are approaching Fall Ing Lock to come off the river onto the cut at Wakefield. A floating pontoon on the river allows crews to get off and work the lock.

While boats passing through Wakefield use the navigable cut to by-pass the weir, some boats do moor on the river itself just above the weir by the Hepworth Gallery. As this picture shows these are moored in a very higgledy piggledy fashion.

We had a look round Wakefield Cathedral. This carving on the miserichords in the choir stalls looks as if it has been carved from a real person.

We found this strange fellow in the shopping centre. He seems to have leg irons and wings and is carrying a boat with two angels in it. There was no helpful label to tell you what it was all about!

This blue plaque was on a small building by the river. It was the phrase "for long Britain's richest" company that I thought was interesting. There was a lot of money to be gained then from investing in the best commercial waterways, some paying annual dividends of 25% year after year.

There are four places in England which have a chapel on a river bridge. Wakefield is one of them. The other three can also be visited by narrowboat.

Here is a little deviation from our story. At Wakefield we joined the Calder and Hebble navigation which continues up the River Calder. it has some strange paddle gear as shown here. The cylinder on the left has rectangular slots into which you insert a 'spke' about three feet long which forms a lever to turn the cylinder and thus lift the paddle.

Knowing we were going to meet these paddles, Ian cut a notch out of a piece of 3 inch square timber that we had picked out of the cut earlier this summer. The slot in the cylinder is about 2 inches by 3.

The Calder and Hebble locks are tricky to work. Our tools are set out on the roof. In the middle are the normal windlasses we use. To the right is a Wey Navigation windlass which is longer and gives you more leverage when the blessed things won't move. And the pick axe handle on the left we found at one lock. It proved to be lighter and more effective at working the Calder and Hebble paddles, though it is a case of a round peg in a square hole.



Our flowers - petunias and geraniums - have turned out very well this year.

On Sunday we stopped briefly in Horbury Bridge to buy a Sunday paper. As you can see it has an unusual claim to fame.

On the edge of Dewsbury we moored in a quiet spot. Nearby we saw this Scout boat coming through the Thornhill Double Locks.

There is a mile long arm here that runs into Dewsbury. As the picture shows it is very weedy. We have brought Leo this way in the past but we are glad we decided not to this time. It probably would have entailed several trips down the weed hatch!

The basin at the end of the Dewsbury Arm had some very well kept boats. It also has a pub called "The Leggers" where we enjoyed a drink in the sunshine.

Sunday evening was sunny and still and gave some very clear reflections across the cut from Leo.

Monday was a series of short hops on the river with navigable cuts between. Here we are coming in to a very short river mooring below Greenwood Lock.

Back on the river after Mirfield we passed these piers which once supported a railway bridge.

And we came to Battyeford Lock (behind the left hand boat) where we left the river again. These two broad beams were trip boats and, since one was occupying the lock landing, the crew were kind enough to open the lock to let us in.

Above the lock at Battyeford is the South Pennine Boat Club which has some fine moorings with all necessary boat yard facilities. Quite impressive.

And so last night we came to Cooper Bridge where there is a canal junction. On the left is a flood gate, closed when the Calder is in spate, and Leo is moored a few yards down the cut beyond the gates to the left. Behind me the River Calder continues upstream to Sowerby Bridge where the Calder and Hebble meets the Rochdale Canal over the Pennines to Manchester. Our way lies ahead going a short way downstream to join the Huddersfield Broad and then the Huddersfield Narrow Canal. But that is a story for another day!


Wednesday 24 July 2024

Down to Leeds and out on the River Aire

 We have now completed our crossing of the Pennines on the Leeds and Liverpool Canal having come into Leeds a couple of days ago. Today we have come down the last two locks onto the River Aire right by Leeds Station and tonight (Wednesday 24th July) we are moored at Woodlesford about five miles to the east of the city. So here is the tale of our last days on the Canal:

Here, looking back, is the view of Saltaire from the canal. Saltaire is a World Heritage site and was originally built by Titus Salt, to process raw wool coming into the town along the canal. He built not only the huge factories either side of the canal, but also houses for his workers, a church to improve their souls but no pub as he was a teetotaller. The pub in the town is called "Don't Tell Titus!"

To the side of the canal passing through Shipley is this rather uninspiring ditch. At one time this was the start of a three mile branch into Bradford. Most of the course of the Bradford Canal has long been built over, so it is unlikely ever to be restored.

Coming closer to Leeds we passed through Rodley where this swing bridge is found. Rodley is reckoned to be the last safe place to moor overnight before embarking on the final locks down to the city. Though things are improving this has been the place for dissolute youths to vandalise boats and the locks. We saw no sign of such damage this time and the CRT chaps we spoke to have not had any trouble this year.

Behind Violet Clare, the boat we have been sharing with for a few days down to Leeds, is what is becoming known as the 'swing bridge from hell'. This bridge is privately owned and was put in as a stronger bridge to take trucks to access a proposed development site. A normal swing bridge takes less than 5 minutes to open, pass through, and close behind. This one takes 15-20 minutes even when you have learned how to do it and that takes detailed study of the complex instructions. We set off down to Leeds about 7.30 am but fortunately we had a rehearsal of this bridge operation in helping another boat through the previous afternoon.

This staircase of three locks is Newlay Locks, one of three staircase sets of locks on the descent into Leeds. Again you can see Violet Clare coming out of the locks with Judy to the right waiting to get back on.

I can't remember if I've featured one of these before. It is a horse ramp to allow a horse pulling a boat to get out of the canal after falling in.

Nearly four hours after setting off, here you can see Leo coming into the centre of Leeds. The brick faced round tower to the left is called the Candle Tower and the white one in the centre is Bridgewater Place.

And here we are moored above Office Lock near Granary Wharf in the centre. The canal here is alongside the main railway into Leeds Station and it is quite noisy, but we are on the side of the canal away from the towpath so there are very few people around. You can see the Candle Tower behind our flowers.

We had a couple of nights in Leeds and we revisited this scupture by Andy Scott famous for designing and building the huge horse sculptures at Falkirk known as the Kelpies. It is in the newish Trinity Shopping Centre. The bundle on the horse's saddle is wool.

This is the fine Victorian Market building.



And here is Crown Arcade, another Victorian masterpiece.

All the way along the Leeds and Liverpool there have been milestones like these. Each shows a mileage from Liverpool in whole units and miles always plus a quarter from Leeds. This is the last one hence a quarter mile from Leeds. On the other side it displays 127 miles from Liverpool.

This morning we came down Office Lock, so called as the offices of the Canal company were alongside and the building is still there. Next comes River Lock which marks the very end of the canal and lets boats down onto the River Aire. Here looking back you can see the lock from the river in the centre of the picture. Candle Tower is again in the photo and Leeds Station is just to the right.

Here we are boating on the river through the city. Notice the yellow water taxi coming towards us. The blue bridge is Leeds Bridge.


And here we are approaching Crown Point Bridge. Just beyond this bridge boats must turn right to avoid the weir and head towards Leeds Lock, the first one on the river.

This view was taken looking back from below Leeds Lock as we left the city centre behind us.

After weeks with the limited horizons of the canals, the River Aire seems very wide and deep. Leo goes much faster on the deeper water so it took us very little time to go down the river to Woodlesford.

Here we are about to pass under the M1.

After we had moored above Woodlesford Lock this monster came past us. Though she seems much larger, Sectan is only 60 feet long and just over 15 feet wide and was built to fit the locks of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal, bringing cargoes transhipped from ocean going ships at Hull to Leeds and beyond.
Woodlesford Lock is very well looked after and like the village of the same name has flowers everywhere. Even the grass is cut, a rarity these days on the canals.

So now we are on the River Aire and our aim next is to turn up the River Calder to access one of the two other routes back over the Pennines. So we will be going up the Rochdale or the Huddersfield Narrow Canal depending on which seems more likely to be dependable. It should be apparent by our next blog posting which way we are going. Watch this space.

Saturday 20 July 2024

Another Wonder of the Waterways - the Bingley Five Rise

 We are now barely 10 miles from Leeds so another posting seems overdue. As we came down the Bingley Five Rise and Three Rise locks yesterday now seems a good point to update you about our travels, so here goes.

Our last posting took us to the Foulridge Tunnel on the summit of the Leeds and Liverpool and since then we have been gradually dropping down into the Aire Valley and towards the River Aire itself in Leeds:

Having come through Barnoldswick we dropped down the three Greenberfield Locks. The picture shows Leo in the middle of the three locks.

Oddly the Greenberfield Locks were moved a short distance to one side of the canal's original course. Here beyond the house you can see an old canal bridge which now does not cross anything. The original canal included a staircase lock. This means that the top gate of one lock is also the bottom gate of the next higher lock without an intervening pound or stretch of water.

At East Marton the road bridge has two arches one above the other. The lower arch was a packhorse bridge built in about 1790. The top one was added to make the passage of motor vehicles easier - presumably less 'down and up'.

East Marton Church sits in isolation on a small hillock above the canal. Graves include a few for navvies who perished in building the canal.

Beyond East Marton is a section of the canal referred to by boaters as "The Bends". To cover about half a mile the canal travels about three times that distance. It zigags around several intersecting valleys and you can see boats coming on another zigzag even though it may be 15 minutes or more before they reach you. We moored in this delightful spot and walked back to a restaurant in East Marton called Abbots Harbour for Sunday lunch.

Soon after the Bends we arrived at the top of the Bank Newton Locks. These six locks drop boats down to an aqueduct where the canal crosses the River Aire for the first time as it joins the Aire Valley. This superb view of hills near Skipton is taken from lock 37, the penultimate one.

And here is Leo in the bottom lock. You might be surprised to see that we are alone in these locks. There seem to be very few boats travelling around here.

There is a short gap between the Bank Newton  locks and the six Gargrave locks and it is here that the canal crosses the Priestholme Aqueduct over the River Aire which is quite a little river at this point.

We went down three of the six Gargrave locks on Monday 15th into the centre of the village and the following day we had intended to get a bus to Malham and walk back along the Pennine Way which crosses the canal at Gargrave. Whether the bus did not run or whether we were waiting at the wrong bus stop we're not sure but we didn't manage this. So instead we did a circular walk from Gargrave. This view of the church at Gargrave was taken as we climbed up into the hills south of the village.

On Wednesday we continued for five miles into Skipton. This took us down the other 3 locks at Gargrave. After these locks there is an 18 mile lock free pound to reach the Bingley locks. While there are no locks on this stretch there are loads and loads of swing bridges like this one at Niffany Farm. At each we  have to stop while Helen gets off to open the bridge. A few have been very stiff and need Ian and sometimes also passers by to lend a hand!

Coming into Skipton we spotted a steeplejack repointing this chimney. Quite a task and what a journey to work.

We don't often have religious interludes on our blog but Ian was very taken by the sunlight coming through this stained glass window in Skipton Church. The scene is of the presentation of Jesus in the temple in Jerusalem.

There is a canal junction in Skipton. Here under the bridge is the Springs branch which goes for about half a mile finishing under the walls of Skipton Castle. Unfortunately there has been a rockfall and there is nowhere to turn round a boat as long as Leo. So, on Thursday, we carried on out of Skipton heading for Silsden.

We had arranged with another boat, Violet Clare, to share the operation of the innumerable swing bridges so one boat swings one and the other does the next one, with the boats leapfrogging each other each time. This undoubtedly reduces the work. The picture is of Milking Hill Swing Bridge near Farnhill.

So finally we reached the end of the 18 mile lock-free pound at the top of the Bingley "Five Rise" locks. Here the canal plummets down a very steep hill going down five consecutive staircase locks, each of them very deep at 12 feet, so 60 feet in all. This is followed by the Bingley "Three Rise" which, you've guessed it, is a staircase of three locks which are not so deep dropping another 30 feet. The top lock is in the background of this picture. We shared the locks with Violet Clare, the boat in the foreground. This boat with Eddy and Judy onboard is 60 feet long and so pretty much at the limit of this canal. So it was difficult sometimes to get the downstream gates open to let their boat out. Leo is 57 feet long, so much easier.

I'll bet you're wondering why this photo is in black and white. Is it a historic photo? No it is simply because somehow Helen managed to switch the camera to black and white. Still it is rather artistic I think. The picture is taken looking down the Bingley Five Rise from near the top. Quite vertiginous!

Here you can see both boats near the bottom of the Five Rise. As you can see we had plenty of CRT staff and volunteers to help us down.

And here is another shot (in colour this time) looking down the locks.

There is some interesting paddle gear on the Five Rise shown here. The handle pulls the paddle across, opening a hole in the gate.

The height of the gates in this flight is astonishing. Sitting on a tall cill the gates must be nearly 20 feet tall. They do not seal particularly well and the poor helmsman (Ian on Leo and Eddy on Violet Clare) gets quite wet. And the water was pretty cold. Perhaps not so bad because it was a hot day.

This view was taken looking back up the flight from the bottom.

And here we are at the bottom of the Bingley Three Rise. No lock keepers to help from here on.

Right at the bottom of the Bingley locks is the Damart factory making thermal underwear to keep us all warm.

We had hoped to moor at the Fisherman's Inn a mile beyond the Bingley locks but sadly there was no space for one, let alone two boats. So we carried on down the Dowley Gap pair of staircase locks and here we are shown crossing a second aqueduct over the Aire just below these locks. We moored just the other side of this aqueduct last night and walked into Saltaire for a look round.

So that takes our story to the Bingley locks which are like nowhere else on our waterways. From here we will be going down the remaining locks, including several more staircases, to Leeds where the canal joins the River Aire.